What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Culture Guide 

Have you ever wondered what to eat in Paris? Maybe you are on a Paris vacation(holiday)? Studying abroad? Just visiting?

We have created a food guide in 2018 to help you find food in Paris that is best for you. Including convenience stores, cafes, and some of the best restaurants in Paris, France. Enjoy!

Section 1: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

French Grocery Stores 

When visiting, you may wonder what to eat in Paris and likely won’t have to cross the threshold of a French supermarché, unless you’re staying in an Air BnB and want to save some money by cooking a few meals at home or you’re just going to pick up some snacks and wine for a picnic. 

But living here is a whole different ball game. I have to say that there are a lot of things I miss about grocery stores from back home.

To give you an idea, here are 5 things you won’t find in French supermarkets:

• 

  Certain dairy products: The closest thing I can find to sour cream in France is crème fraîche. It doesn’t have the distinctive tang that sour cream does, but it is pretty much the same texture and gets the job done. I usually buy it for taco nights and skillet casseroles. You can also sub Greek yogurt, although they only have plain or blueberry-flavored, and it’s either Nestle or generic store brand.The French usually stick to regular or flavored yogurts, fromage blanc or petit suisse. I also am a big fan of cottage-cheese, but alas, they only have two kinds I know of: one that you can get at Monoprix that is decent but overpriced and the Jockey brand, but all you get are two measly pots that cost 3-something euros. The milk selection is quite limited as well—you can get either skim or whole milk, and that’s about it. I haven’t seen any 1% or 2% or Vitamin-D varieties. They do, however, have plenty of plant-based milks to choose from (rice, soy, almond, etc.), and I switched to almond milk while I was in the States last summer, so I usually just get a carton of that, and it lasts me ages.

• 

  Pickled foods (dill pickles, specifically): They have their little cornichons (mini gherkins), but dill pickle spears are far and few between. I don’t think I’ve ever come across pickles that taste quite like the ones from home, which makes me just a wee bit homesick when eating sandwiches or burgers. There are also special “sandwich” pickles, which are basically long, thin slices of larger cornichons.But they just don’t have that crisp or crunchy taste that dill spears do. I also love banana peppers, but they’re expensive and typically only found in the “ethnic” section of grocery stores in cans (without a pop-off lid) or jars. I still have yet to find relish in normal French grocery stores, which makes trying to replicate Chicago-style hot dogs impossible. And I know the French eat sauerkraut, especially Alsatian-style with choucroute (cured pork and sausage), but it’s not readily available.

• 

  Triscuits/Crackers: You’ll only be able to find Triscuits at American grocery stores in Paris, and they come at a hefty price. To give you an idea, Thanksgiving sells a 9-ounce box for a whopping 8.95€. So I pretty much stick to Swedish Wasa crispbreads, rice cakes, spelt seeded crackers or the occasional pack of Tucs for apéros and picnics. You can also find regular saltines and Jewish Matzah crackers.But none of ‘em come close to those weaved whole wheat squares of goodness that melt in your mouth and go perfectly with cheese and sausage. I also miss Wheat Thins, Graham crackers (Speculoos biscuits are a close replacement) and Ritz crackers. Then again, authentic French baguette slices aren’t exactly a shabby substitute for all that…

• 

  Canned black beans: Again, these are available at some American épiceries, but they cost more than you’d spend for one glass of wine at a café. Needless to say, I don’t eat them nearly as much as I did in the States, which is unfortunate because they’re an excellent alternative to meat. But, I did stumble upon cheap bags of dried black beans at a few ethnic grocery stores in my neighborhood, and I’ve started cooking them from scratch.It might sound tedious, but actually it’s ridiculously easy and not as time-consuming as you’d think. I usually let the beans soak while I’m at work and cook a big batch of them when I get home to use for salads and Mexican-style dishes throughout the week. They take no more than 1 ½ hours to simmer up, and it’s definitely more economical. Plus, there’s just something satisfying about knowing there’s no added salt or preservatives.

• 

  A satisfying variety of bread products: Besides crackers, one thing I really miss in Paris is the huge selection of bread products we have back home. Okay, sure, you might think I’m being ungrateful given the plethora of unmatched French carbs you can get from the boulangerie, but sometimes I want wraps (that come in other flavors besides “plain”), low-carb tortillas, fluffy pita or flatbreads and real English muffins.

  Tortillas are available in most grocery stores, but like I said they’re really bland and industrial-tasting. Pitas exist as well, but you can’t find whole-wheat varieties, and they’re small and kind of hard, in my opinion. I always get the English muffins because I love a good breakfast sandwich to start my day, but they’re still overly “bready.” They don’t have the spongy texture of the ones I grew up with, and even toasted they’re more like round bread buns than “English-muffin”-like. The sandwich bread selection is also limited and boring. Trust me, if you ever live here long enough, there will be times when you actually don’t feel like eating baguette (shocking, I know). But the mediocre pain de mie almost makes you want to just go carb-free.

As for the logistical aspect, it’s really only practical to go grocery shopping every other day. Most people, like myself, don’t drive to the store, so we have to lug our groceries home on foot. If you’ve ever lived at the top of a 6-story building with no elevator, you understand that carrying 5 kilos of food up them is enough to count as your daily exercise.

And if you go during peak hours (between 5 and 8 pm usually), be prepared for the most inefficient checkout experience of your life. French grocery store clerks are some of the most unhurried individuals I’ve ever come across, and they love to have full-blown conversations with each other while scanning your food. There are no baggers, and some grocery stores charge you a few cents for plastic bags. It’s a miniscule price, but still, it makes the American experience feel like complete luxury.

Also, unless there are no scales around the produce section, always weigh your fruits and veggies (except for items marked with a price for la pièce, which means per item). Otherwise, when you do finally make it to the checkout after what seems like hours, you’ll end up scrambling across the store to weigh your apples, holding up the line and getting death stares from all the other impatient Parisians behind you.

Another thing all my American friends and I agree on over here is that produce and pretty much all food products (besides candy, chocolate, dried/canned goods, etc.) have a seriously short life span. It’s actually shocking when I go home to visit my parents and see that the milk, lettuce and cheese we bought two weeks ago is still all looking and tasting brand new (makes you wonder why…).

Here, I can only stretch my groceries a week at most, and then I have to start throwing things out, which becomes wasteful if I have a lot of unexpected dinners or outings pop up during the week. That being said, I do appreciate being able to eat super fresh food with few to no preservatives.

And last but not least, perhaps my biggest pet peeve about French supermarkets is the fact that they close early, and the vast majority are not open on Sundays or national holidays. While I fully agree that every person should have the right to take a day off, particularly on holidays, I know that there are many people who would prefer to work because they need the money. The latest I’ve seen a grocery store close is 11:30 pm, and it was located in a very animated touristic area of Paris where all the surrounding businesses stay open late.

And not that I would rather go buy groceries at 10:30 pm on a regular basis, but sometimes you realize that you forgot something or just want to pick up stuff you need for the next day. At that point, it’s often too late, and your only option is to go to a petite épicerie, usually run by foreign immigrants that are selling convenience items at exorbitant prices. Not to mention some grocery stores are required by law to stop selling alcohol after 9 pm. What’s most inconvenient, however, is the not being open on Sunday part. I usually have to go an extra mile or so to find a small supermarket that stays open on Sundays, and of course it’s always packed with a limited stock of things.

The moral of the story is that there are some aspects to living in France that are vastly different than living in the States, and reconciling the two is one of the hardest parts about being an American expat. If you have ever wondered what to eat in Paris, I wanted to paint a small yet realistic picture of one facet of living abroad and the difficulties that you might encounter because it’s easy to get caught up in idealized representations of Europe and elsewhere. The idea is not to shatter France’s pristine reputation in the eyes of tourists and those filled with Parisian wanderlust but to break the clichés that are associated with it. Because after all, even a place like Paris has its flaws—and yet, here I am, still loving it all the same.

Section 2: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

Pizza in Paris 

When it comes to comparing pizzas throughout the world, all I can say is “to each their own.” I don’t claim to be a pizza expert nor am I one of those die-hard fans who needs to get my cheesy pie fix more than once a week.

But growing up in a household where we pretty much did order pizza every weekend, I still get the craving from time to time, and well, who doesn’t?

Like most suburban American children, I started with the pizza from Chuck E. Cheese’s. Then there was a great little pizza joint called Jake’s that I’d go to with my youth sports teams after games. As an adult, my family transitioned to Rosati’s, another suburban fave. Then we’d alternate with Pizza Hut and Domino’s Pizza, of course. And every once in a while we’d indulge in good old-fashioned Chicago Deep Dish.

On this side of the “pond,” deep dish pizza is somewhat of a rarity and a mind-boggling one at that. I find that Parisians, and French people in general, tend to have smaller palates and eyes that aren’t bigger than their stomachs. The norm I’ve come across is thin-crust and usually just a fine layer of cheese to house the various toppings, which range from the most basic (mozzarella, tomato sauce, basil) to the gourmet (Truffle sauce, Mascarpone, wild mushrooms).

Although I will say that standard portion sizes are more than enough to satisfy, as most restaurants serve up hefty individual pies. You might cut a slice to exchange with your dining companions, but for the most part, you don’t really see pizzas cut up into little squares for sharing. And thin-sliced pepperoni or sausage chunks are replaced with mini rounds of salami and spatterings of ground beef.

There are a handful of pizza places that sell by the kilo or by the slice like in New York. But perhaps the only time I’ve ever seen a deep-dish pizza on the menu was for one of the hundreds of Turkish kebab take-out places that deliver, and I’m guessing it’s a far cry from the Lou Malnati’s I’m used to.

I was fortunate enough to taste “authentic” pizza on Italian soil earlier this year, in a cute little eatery on the Navigli Canal in Milan. It was delicious, but I’ve been told that the city with the bonafide Italian pizza we all dream about is Naples.
Another important note: Most Europeans eat pizza with a fork and knife, as it is rarely served pre-cut, unless for delivery (and even then, I have French friends who will proceed to eat the pieces with utensils…).

On the bright side, good pizza places are certainly not a hard find in Paris, that is if you know where to look.

Here are my top picks if you know what to eat in Paris:

Hands-down favorite: Pizzeria O’Scià

This little gem buried away on the restaurant-lined rue de Tiquetonne in Paris’s animated 2nd arrondissement is my pizza paradise. Perfect for weekend getaways. If I ever doubted my affection for the cheesy comfort food, my hesitation would be immediately squandered after a visit to O’Scia. I love the kitsch ambiance, the mostly Italian staff with their charming accents (although service can be hit or miss) and the wide selection of 20-some delicious pizzas that are served piping hot and well-garnished.

The crust is just as it should be—substantial yet thin enough so you don’t get too stuffed on carbs, crispy on the outside yet soft on the inside. The restaurant also serves must-try specialties, such as a fried pizza folded over and stuffed with tomato sauce, ricotta, smoked Mozzarella and pepper (so basically a giant Calzone) and the Tartufo—with buffalo-milk Mozzarella and black truffle sauce.

If you’re going to order an appetizer, I recommend sharing the Contadino—an assortment of grilled veggies with buffalo-milk mozzarella. Otherwise, the rest are particularly carb-heavy and as generously portioned as the pizzas.

As for my personal fave, I usually go with the Quattro stagioni or the Vegeteriana and add Prosciutto (because I love my veggies but can’t go without a little meat!).

• Where: 44 rue Tiquetonne 75002 Paris
• Hours: Everyday from noon to 2:30 pm, 7:30-11:30; closed Sunday lunch
• Bonus: The location previously housed an African restaurant called Malibu, and the owners of O’Scia kept its signature braised half-chicken, served with traditional sauces and fried banana plantains on the side (they sometimes stay open late and serve this past 1 AM in the morning). I’ve had it, and it’s excellent, if you for some reason aren’t tempted by the hundreds of pizzas wafting all around you…

Runner-up: Le Babalou

Although it’s located in the uber-touristy Montmartre ‘hood, where mediocre restaurants abound, Le Babalou is still a step off the beaten path. To get there, you ascend the seven or so flights of stairs up toward the Sacré Coeur, but before heading up the final steps, you turn right and head down an inconspicuous side street, rue Lamarck. It’s the first restaurant you stumble upon with a purple awning labeled “Pizzeria” on the side.

The place is small and gets packed quickly, but it’s incredibly charming with retro décor, kitschy tablecloths and the kind of cluttered paraphernalia that almost makes you feel like you have an Italian grandmother who invited you over for dinner. Despite this sort of garish façade, it’s actually a great place for a romantic tête-à-tête, especially if you can score a table on the tiny sidewalk terrace away from the bustling interior.

I recommend the Speck, which is a pizza bianca (no tomato sauce) garnished with a Mascarpone-Gorgonzola and Mozzarella base, then topped with smoked ham shavings, mushrooms and ricotta—it is to die for. They have plenty of tomato-based choices as well, and the dessert specialty is the Nutella pizza, which you can save room for, if you order a half-pizza with salad.

• Where: 4 rue Lamarck
• Hours: Everyday from noon to 11:30 pm
• Bonus: You can hike up to the top of Montmartre afterward to burn off some calories, and there you’ll find a panoramic view of Paris in front of the famous Sacré Coeur church. Then meander the winding side streets behind the church and stop for a night cap on a cute restaurant terrace. As I said, it’s touristy but you really feel all the charms that Paris is made of.

For impeccable carry-out: Il Brigante

The restaurant is a tiny hole in the wall, and the Calabrian pizzaiolo works tirelessly in his open kitchen to meet the overwhelming demand of loyal patrons and pizza fanatics. So unless you have the patience of a saint and a stomach that can handle the mouthwatering aroma, I recommend getting your pie to go.You’ll still have to wait a bit, but I promise it’s worth it, if you want to know what to eat in Paris. The chef uses authentic Italian ingredients, and the proof is in the crust (which is perfectly thin with a cracker-like crunch to it). Try the Pizza dei Carbonari, a pasta classic made pizza-style with mozzarella, pecorino, guanciale (pork cheeks), egg and Scaglie di grana Parmesan flakes.

Portions are generous, and prices cap off at a reasonable 18 euros. If you’re feeling particularly ravenous, add a portion of lemon Tiramisu to your order.

• Where: 14 rue de Ruisseau Paris 75018
• Hours: Monday to Saturday from noon to 2:30 pm, 7:30 to 11:30 pm; closed Sunday

For pizza by the slice: Fonzarelli

Following the success of Al Taglio, pizza sold by the kilo is no longer a novelty in Paris, but that doesn’t make it any less delicious. I discovered Fonzarelli during a work lunch one day, and I was immediately enthralled by the square-shaped slices of heaven, topped with such fresh delicacies as truffle cream, cèpes, scamorza (smoked cheese), pine nuts, shaved Speck, etc. This pizza reminded me of home a bit, with its slightly thicker crust and generous toppings.

And the dough is a force to be reckoned with, as it’s left to mature for 3 days with a recipe developed by famous baker Jean-Luc Poujaran. The déco is decidedly modern, crisp and clean with sleek wood furnishings, a patchwork tile floor and the requisite classy wine display on the wall. The framed vintage images are a nice added touch. As for the meal, you can get out of there for less than 10 euros if you opt for a menu of 1 or 2 pizza slices with an appetizer, dessert and drink.

They also offer delicious pastas, salads and a variety of ogle-worthy Tiramisus embedded with Nutella, raspberries, cherries, pistachios and more. It’s the perfect affordable work lunch or a reasonable dinner before heading out on the town.

• Where: 62 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière 75010 Paris
• Hours: Monday to Saturday from noon to 3 pm, 6:30 to 10:30 pm; closed Sunday.

Section 3: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide: 

Desserts in Paris 

Macarons

Macarons are to Paris what Belgian waffles are to Belgium. You cannot leave Paris without eating at least ten macarons. When you visit Paris I would recommend Gérard Mulot at 93 Rue de la Glacière, 75013 Paris, France. They make the best macrons in my opinion and are worth the wait. This is knowing what to eat in Paris!

Sometimes, it’s nice to change from the everyday croissant or pain au chocolat (although the two are classic French pastries that will never go out of style). If your sweet tooth is feeling adventurous, here are a few unexpected treats I highly recommend trying in Paris:

Chocolate pistachio escargot: This masterpiece hails from the legendary Du Pain et Des Idées boulangerie owned by Christophe Vasseur. It’s just near Canal Saint Martin, which makes it the perfect location to pick up a pastry to go and savor it on the quays.

Chocolate and pistachio melt together in a pastry crust that will change your idea of the word “escargot” forever.

Mouna: Usually when you think of Algerian food in Paris, it’s all about couscous and heavily spiced meat dishes. But there are actually a ton of Algerian-owned boulangeries as well, and they offer an exotic treat sampling you won’t find anywhere else.

This pastry is a sweet brioche-like bun or dome made of eggs and leavened bread with an orange aroma. Stop in at La Bague de Kenza, and give it a try.

Waffle cookies: This treat has little to do with the puffy, whipped cream and maple syrup-laden delicacies we’re used to seeing. It’s a flat, oblong-shaped cookie filled with sugar, butter and various delectable fillings, such as blackcurrant and violet, raspberry and Szechuan pepper, praline and puffed rice, among others!

Mazurek: One of my absolute favorite boulangeries in Paris that isn’t French is Sacha Finkelsztajn, located on the bustling rue des rosiers in Le Marais aka the Jewish aka the gay neighborhood.

Besides their incredible pastrami sandwiches, they make all kinds of traditional Jewish and foreign pastries, including this Polish specialty that is basically a short pastry with a thick layer of icing spread on top and garnished with various nuts, seeds and dried fruits.

Matcha angel cake: Asian-inspired pastries are a hit in Paris, especially those that incorporate green tea, like this sponge cake from Pâtisserie Ciel made with green tea batter, matcha whipped cream, matcha coulis (syrup), matcha meringue, powdered sugar and matcha crumbles.

Doesn’t get much more green tea than that.

It’s surprisingly delicious, and you can pretend you’re eating it for your health…

Section 4: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

Healthy Eating in Paris

If you think dining out in Paris means constantly gorging yourself on bread, heavy meats and butter—or fat-laden fare with bottles upon bottles of wine to wash it all down—you’d only be right in one instance: vacation.

But when you live here, or anywhere else for that matter, you have to practice the golden rule of moderation.

How else do you think the French maintain their trim reputation?

Believe me, I see skinny French people gobbling down cheeseburgers like it’s nobody’s business all the time. Not to mention they love their cheese- and charcuterie-filled apéros. However, those cheeseburgers are mostly sporadic indulgences, and they often turn those happy hour munchies into dinner—which means that somewhere along the line, everything kind of just balances out.

I’m also going to let you in on a few French eating secrets:

• 

  Generally speaking, breakfast is a simple affair. They might have a pastry and a cup of coffee, some cereal with fruit and a yogurt, a bowl of muesli or a single slice of buttered baguette and orange juice. This isn’t to say there aren’t any gourmet exceptions out there, but I rarely hear of a French person concocting an elaborate morning breakfast for themselves every day, particularly if they have a 9-5. And you will find that omelets are sometimes more popular for lunch and dinner.

• 

  No snacking. I repeat, do not go to the vending machine. Do not bring a bag of chips to work with you for an afternoon pick-me-up. Do not engineer designated snack times into your meal plan. If Parisians do become unavoidably peckish, fruit is the usual hunger-crusher, apples especially. Maybe a handful of nuts or a smoothie. Kids have a little more leeway and can often be seen waddling down the street devouring Nutella crêpes or crusty pastries as an after-school treat (while the rest of us curse our sputtering metabolisms as we walk by…)

• 

  Lunch is usually the biggest meal of the day, unless they have specific dinner plans. And in a French cafeteria, that means taking an entrée (appetizer), plat (main dish) and dessert without thinking twice about it. When I was teaching English in a high school just outside of Paris, my mind was blown by the school lunches that were being served. For a mere 3.20€, I was eating 3-course meals that consisted of starters like shrimp avocado terrines, pâté-en-croûte (pâté enrobed in a puff-pastry crust), marinated grated carrot salads and wild mushroom soup, and meal plates filled with a half roasted chicken in morel sauce, roasted codfish, boeuf bourguignon, accompanied by mashed potatoes, rice and steamed vegetables or sauteed herbed potatoes, just to name a few. This is cheap food in Paris.

Dessert choices included chocolate mousse, tarte tatin (upside-down apple tart), pies, or fresh fruit and a dairy product (yogurt, fromage blanc, a cheese wedge) and the requisite crusty bread roll. Pizza and fried foods were nowhere to be seen, nor were soft drink soda fountains or stacks of Twinkies, cookies and other sugar-filled suspects.

Anyway, for working people, this is slightly less feasible, and many French people do eat in front of their computers for lunch when they’re pressed for time or just feel like a bagel sandwich instead. But still, the idea is that lunch can be the most caloric meal of the day, while dinner will usually turn out to be little more than a soup or salad with yogurt and a piece of fruit.

But just like everyone else, there are days when I don’t have time to pack my lunch for work or nights I enjoy overly long, well-watered dinners with friends. You have to take pleasure in living, too—that’s basically what half of living in Paris is all about!
Luckily, this city is chock-full of foodie entrepreneurs who have your best interests in mind, with loads of healthy options for eating out. Here are my top picks to eat clean and classy in Paris, while still enjoying what’s on your plate:

• 

  Best cheap food in Paris: organic (and family-friendly): Le Bichat

  • It’s hard to find a bar/restaurant in Paris where you can get 100% organic food that’s yummy and satisfying, without making you eat like a bird. Bowls of the day start at 7€ and are filled with rice, cooked or raw vegetables and 5 protein choices to suit vegetarians, fish- and meat-eaters alike. There is also a daily soup for 3-5€, in addition to organic wines by the glass, beer, and homemade lemonade. If you have kids, there’s even a loft area for them to play in, and the table seating is communal picnic-table style, which makes for a convivial relaxed atmosphere. It’s perfect for chatting up other parents or getting in some couple’s time over a nice, affordable meal. It’s also counter-service, and the place is open from day to night, so you can stop in for a morning cappucino and some light reading, catch a healthy, fulfilling lunch break or meet up with friends for drinks in the evening.
  • Where: 11 rue Bichat 75010 Paris; Open everyday from 9 am to 11 pm

• 

  Best for gluten-free fast-food: NOUS

  • Organic, gluten-free and fast—I never knew it was possible to have all three until Nous. They offer savory dishes in “hot boxes” in meat and vegetarian options that come with seasonal salads and Camargue red rice, “Nourritos,” which are basically composed of any one savory dish wrapped in tortillas with lettuce, kale, avocado and veggies, and “Nourgers” (ditto for the wraps but on hamburger buns). Of course they have salads as well and organic homemade fries, in addition to gluten-free fruit- and veggie-based desserts and pressed fruit juices. Lunch menus cap off at 14€—it doesn’t get much cheaper or guilt-free than that!
  • Where: 16 rue de Paradis 75010 Paris; Open Monday-Friday from 12 to 10 pm

• 

  Best for healthy food; brunch with the girls: Lula Lifestyle Shop

  • After a wild or overly indulgent night out with the girls, the last thing you should do is head for the neighborhood kebab place. Instead, this adorable organic concept store/brunch spot/café offers a generous 25€ brunch menu that comes savory or sweet. The savory version includes seasonal veggie salad, quinoa and red lentils, scrambled eggs with fresh herbs and a piece of foccacia garnished with cheese and in-season vegetables. If you’re more of a sweets person, then go for the version sucrée with seasonal fruit salad, yogurt with cornflakes and homemade compote, an assortment of toasts and jams. It all comes with a juice of the day and your choice of hot beverage. The small eatery and shop also boasts communal and window counter seating. When brunch is over, you can browse the shelves for sustainable products, fashion accessories, and organic take-away food items, among others.
    • Where: 216 rue Saint-Maur 75010 Paris; Open Monday-Friday from 12 to 3 pm; Saturday for brunch from 11 am to 3 pm

• 

  Best for healthy food in Paris: Korean food: Tokki

  • You don’t have to settle for greasy, reheated Chinese food or “meh” sushi meals in Paris. The Asian cantine Tokki is dedicated to well-being and exotic flavors at a reasonable price. After I discovered Okamé, I dug a little more into the healthy Asian food scene, and this place was a welcome surprise. Delicious cold soba noodle salads, Korean dumplings on a bed of cold, organic green tea noodles (crazy, right?!), steaming noodle or dumpling soups, hot Yakisoba noodles, savory bentos with grilled meats and vegetarian dishes, and LOTS of green tea desserts, including Matcha ice cream and melt-in-your-mouth chocolate fondant with a green tea center. I just can’t get over the delicious, guilt-free options that you can enjoy in a crisp, clean setting. Bonus: lunch menus don’t surpass 16€ for the bentos + dessert + drink.
    • Where: 10 rue de la Boule Rouge 75009 Paris; Open Monday-Friday from 9:30 am to 4 pm; Saturday from noon to 4 pm

Eating in? Make yourself a healthy Parisian Salad

Summer is creeping up fast in Paris, which means salads are de rigueur for slipping effortlessly into your cute summer fashions.

Try this classic Salade Parisienne for an energizing lunch or healthy dinner.

A glass of red and slice of crusty French baguette on the side is totally allowed!

Salade Parisienne
Ingredients for 4 people (as main):
Salad:

• 2 chicken breasts
• 2 Yukon Gold potatoes
• 2 cups cooked ham, cubed
• 1 ½ cups Swiss cheese
• 3 ½ cups cherry tomatoes
• 1 ½ tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine
• French vinaigrette, recipe follows
• salt
• pepper
• 4 cups of Mesclun salad mix

Vinaigrette (makes about 1 cup):

• ½ teaspoon sea salt
• 4 tablespoons sherry or red wine vinegar
• 2 small shallots, peeled and minced
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 6 to 8 tablespoons olive oil
• fresh herbs (optional)

Directions:

1. Cook the potatoes in boiling water on the stove or in the pressure cooker.
2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a skillet, and brown the chicken breasts until cooked through, about 8-12 minutes. Be sure to flip the chicken regularly to ensure it cooks evenly. Remove to a cutting board, and cut into ½-inch slices.
3. Dice the cherry tomatoes and Swiss cheese.
4. When the potatoes are done, peel them and chop into cubes.
5. Add the potatoes and Swiss cheese to a small bowl, and pour the white wine over the mix.
6. Season with salt and pepper.
7. Let the mixture sit and marinate for 30 minutes.
8. Add the chicken, ham and tomatoes to the potatoes and cheese. Pour in the vinaigrette, and toss the ingredients well to coat.
9. Wash and dry the Mesclun mix. Divide the salad leaves evenly among 4 bowls.
10. Top with the meat and vegetable mixture, and grind some pepper on top. Serve!

For the vinaigrette: Mix the salt, vinegar and shallot in a small bowl. Let sit for 10 minutes.

Add the Dijon mustard and olive oil. Whisk well. Taste to adjust seasonings or ingredients (you can add more oil or mustard, depending on your preference). Add chopped, fresh herbs before serving.

This recipe is perfect for Sunday brunch with the girls, or you can cut the portion size in half to use it as an appetizer salad.

Salad recipe adapted from Madame Figaro
Vinaigrette recipe courtesy of David Lebovitz

Section 5: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

Breakfast in Paris

When it comes to breakfast, like many other things in their culture, the French keep it simple. Here are a few ideas to get you eating breakfast like a Parisian.

                                              Photo courtesy of littlehousefrau.com

1. Flaky pastry and an espresso : When Parisians are pressed for time in the morning, they typically will line up at the corner café counter to sip an espresso and scarf down a croissant while reading a few lines of the day’s news or chatting briefly with the owner. Or for the even more hurried, they will simply pass by the boulangerie to pick up a flaky pain au chocolat, a milky, buttery pain au lait, a sweet pain aux raisins (kind of like a cinnamon roll with raisins) or even just a handful of chouquettes, little French cream puffs sprinkled with pearl sugar. Then, they’ll get their coffee at the office espresso machine or opt for Starbucks (it’s a huge franchise in Paris).

   

2. Tartines with jam butter or cheese, orange juice and filtered coffee : This is basically the French way to do toast in the morning. But better than any old sandwich bread, they have the option of slicing up crispy, preservative-free baguette, toasting it lightly and then slathering it with delicious confitures and beurre of their choosing.  Thin slices of comté, brie or a spread of boursin adds a savory touch. It’s a no-fuss meal, satisfying, and washed down perfectly with a glass of fresh OJ and high-quality drip coffee. For tighter budgets, soluble coffee is a popular alternative.

   

3. Omelet with herbs and butter/mushrooms/ham/cheese or a combination of everything, room-temperature tap water : Although most restaurants in Paris have ice cubes (for serving soft drinks and cocktails), the free tap water served in glass carafes is often tepid, which comes as a surprise to many Anglophone visitors used to drinking ice-cold water all the time. It’s easy to get used to, however. Omelets are a popular breakfast choice in France, but they are also acceptable lunch and even dinner options. There are no heavy-laden cheese and meat-stuffed recipes, however. A classic one-ingredient omelet is plenty for the French, as long as it is cooked well.

   

4. Quiche, a fruit salad and cup of tea : Quiche is an extremely common French dish and also invariable for eating at any time of day. The most common recipes include Quiche Lorraine (ham and Emmental cheese), Quiche aux épinards (spinach), Quiche au saumon (salmon) and a quiche with some sort of colorful vegetable combination. It requires quite a bit more prep, so Parisians will usually reserve it for long weekend brunches or pick up a portion from their nearest boulangerie. Fruit salad makes a refreshing and healthy accompaniment. And although tea is often thought of as an exclusive English asset, the French are drinking it more and more as a lighter, more soothing morning drink than the heavy espressos with jolting effects.

   

5. Crêpes and café au lait : Ok, crêpes are probably the closest thing to resemble American pancakes, although they are extremely thin, and eaten either rolled or slightly folded up with one or more sweet or savory fillings. Instead of maple syrup, drizzled honey and Chantilly cream are popular toppings. And just as Americans are kind of obsessed with peanut butter, the French have their own spreadable vice : Nutella. A dollop of Nutella spread on the inside of a crêpe, then folded up neatly with a sprinkling of crushed almonds, coconut, sliced banana or whatever other fillings one desires is a food experience that every visitor to Paris needs to have at least once. Café au lait is simply coffee and steamed milk and is often served with a delicate design on top because you know, the French are all about esthetically pleasing food and drink. It should be noted that crêpes are usually eaten as more of a street food or dessert in Paris, unless you head to an actual crêperie and have it as the main meal.

   Paris Street Food
   You cannot go to Paris without trying a Crepes. My personal favorite is Nutella and bananas. Delicious would not do it justice. This is more so a dessert and usually isn’t a meal. However you can have almost anything you want in a crepe. You can try getting a crepe from a street vendor. But I would try Au P’tit Grec on 68 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris, France first.

Section 6: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

French Bread

France without bread would be like Japan without rice, Italy without pasta or Mexico without beans.

What would the French do with all those glorious sandwich fillings, such as the ever-simple-yet-delicious ‘Parisien’ combo of jambon-beurre (ham and butter), the classic poulet rôti (roasted chicken) on a bed of iceberg lettuce with a chopped hard-boiled egg, tomatoes and mayonnaise or the ‘Norvégien’ composed of marinated smoked salmon with a Boursin-like cream cheese spread and fresh raw veggies?

What would they use to sop up all the succulent leftover Béchamel, Hollandaise and other creamy sauces on their plates?

And what would possibly serve as a better accompaniment to their stunning fromage and charcuterie plates, garnished with cornichons and a few pats of irresistible butter?

No, a France without le pain simply would not do. On the other hand, it was brought to national attention last year that the baguette is anything but on the rise these days. Consumption of the crusty delight is down to one half per day, as opposed to a whole in 1970 and at least three in 1900, according to a New York Times article published on the topic last July.

The article goes on to state that the discovery was so unsettling to the Observatoire du Pain, the bakers’ and millers’ lobby, that it “started a nationwide campaign in June that champions bread as promoting good health, good conversation and French civilization.”

They also conceived the very ‘Got Milk?’-esque slogan ‘Coucou, tu as pris le pain?’ (Hi there, have you picked up the bread?) to plaster all over the country as its daily dough reminder.

So unless you are gluten-free, pas d’excuse! You cannot get this quality of bread anywhere else, so when in France, do not forget to take your daily bread. The baguette tradition is obviously the classic standby, but there are many more grainy pleasures to try. Here, a brief introductory guide to help you navigate the field of wheat, otherwise known as a boulangerie :

Baguette tradition
This is the type you’ll see ordered most often. You can simply say ‘Une tradition s’il vous plaît,’ and the baker will serve you up a typical-looking long, thin loaf that by French law can contain no additional ingredients besides wheat flour, water, yeast and salt. A simple baguette can contain additives, however, so the ‘tradition’ is a good option if you have health concerns. If you like it especially crunchy and crumbly, ask for it ‘bien cuite.’

Or, if you like it a little on the softer, more doughy side, say ‘pas trop cuite.’
Serving suggestions : Easy to-go sandwiches, breakfast tartines, as an accompaniment to creamy or saucy dishes and to cheese/charcuterie

Flûte
This will either resemble a kind of bloated version of the normal baguette (same length but double the volume) OR a skinny version (equivalent in weight to a demi-baguette and also referred to as ‘une ficelle’).

It is available in many varieties, including nature, céréales, pavot and sesame, to name a few (normal baguettes come in all of these styles as well).

Serving suggestions : Picnics for sharing (larger size) or apéritif bases

Pain de Campagne
Literally translated to ‘country bread,’ this variation is similar to sourdough. It usually is sold as  a ‘miche’ (large, round loaf) and might include some whole wheat or rye flour, which gives it a slightly longer shelf life.

It also has a nice thick crust.

Serving suggestions : Pâtés, deli-style sandwiches or as an accompaniment to a sauce-based meal.

Fougasse
Consider this the French version of the Calzone. It is flat, often stuffed with cheese and bits of bacon and comes in a leaf-like shape.

The ingredient combinations are infinite, and the city is full of places that offer delicious, cheesy, meaty and vegetarian variations on the focaccia-like bread.

Serving suggestions : As is! One serving could suffice as a meal, or you can split it up as a savory side.

Pain d’Epi
Let’s call this one the breadstalk (though it’s more commonly referred to as wheat-stalk bread).

It’s pretty much a bunch of smaller rolls of traditional French bread melded together to form an artisanal loaf that wins as much in the aesthetic category as it does in offering a practical incentive for portion control.

Serving suggestions : Dinner parties, potlucks and for any time you don’t feel like having more than one ‘piece.’

Pain Complet or Pain aux Céréales
Here’s one for health-conscious foodies. Fiber-rich, made with wholemeal flour and the latter specked with all kinds of delightful seeds (flax, millet, sesame, poppy, etc.), this is a hearty choice that comes in either loaf or baguette form.

You might see ‘baguette complet,’ particularly in organic bakeries, although it is often a whole euro more expensive than its white counterpart.

Serving suggestions : Load up on the cheese and charcuterie with a little less guilt, or make yourself a toasted mozzarella, tomato, basil sandwich.

Pain de Siegle
The rye-bread equivalent and runner-up to the complet, pain de seigle is bold-flavored and high in fiber. It’s usually sold as a round loaf bread at bakeries and can also be bought sliced in most supermarkets, though the choice is limited.

Serving suggestions : Deli-style sandwiches, morning toast with smoked salmon and St. Moret creamy cheese spread, or when you’re craving the taste of home in the closest thing you’ll get to a patty melt. Try famed Paris food blogger David Lebovitz’s recipe.

Brioche
For the sweet tooths among you. This is like Pillsbury Doughboy meets Betty Crocker in Paris. Soft and pillowy, with a flaky texture — you pull it apart, and it will practically melt in your mouth, which is probably why it’s more considered a ‘viennoiserie’ than a ‘pain.’

Unfortunately, if you are what you eat, then too much of a good brioche could result in fluffy sides. It is highly enriched and made with a whole lot of egg and butter to give it that creamy taste.

Serving suggestions : As a sweet breakfast indulgence with jams or (more) butter, with afternoon tea or as a rich replacement for your usual hamburger or sandwich bun.

On occasion, you should also try to switch up your regular baguette or tradition with a specialty kind, such as pain aux noix (baked with nuts), pain aux olives (baked with olives) or pain aux figues (baked with figs…amazing!).

These varieties tend to be a bit more on the caloric side, so it’s not recommended to indulge in them daily. Just do as the French do : Everything in moderation.

Now that you have a basic French bread vocabulary, where do you go in Paris for the best slice? We’ll cover that next month in Part II of our Guide to Les Pains Français…

Featured photo courtesy of santecool.net

Last month, we educated you a bit on the different types of French breads and how to navigate your local boulangerie. However, in the land of liberty, equality and fraternity, not all Parisian baguettes are created equal.

Once you’ve tasted enough to compare, you’ll quickly realize that there really is an art to bread making — some have mastered it, while others have yet to…rise to the occasion.

Fortunately, many masters of the trade reside in Paris, and we’re willing to drop some bread crumbs that will help lead you to le pain that could make all your crumbly, golden, flaky dreams about France come true :

1) Winner of the 2014 Best Baguette in Paris, the bread from this place is fit for royalty, er, political royalty that is. Or let’s just say Monsieur Anthony Texeira will be feeding the mouths of those who dine at Le Palais de l’Elysée (Elysée Palace, where the French president officially lives) until next year’s competition. Texeira’s father, Antonio, previously won the coveted title in 1998 when Jacques Chirac was in office. Whatever they’re doing at Aux délices du palais, they must be doing something right because it’s the first time a boulangerie has ever won the competition twice. And just think, for 1.10 euros you can get the same bread as François Hollande. If that’s not socialism at work, we’re not sure what is. Where : Aux delices du palais, 60 boulevard Brune Paris 75014 Open : Monday, Tuesday, Thursday-Sunday from 6:15 am to 8 pm Be sure to try : Besides the baguette, of course, the delectable pastries — He’s won several awards for those as well.

2) His bread is a transcontinental success, and despite his German-sounding name, he is a French native from the Lorraine region of France. Born out of an ancestral chain of breadmakers, Éric Kayser went on to create a chain of his own. But his artisan loafs and baguettes are incomparable and certainly nothing like the lower quality dough you might find at other franchises. The consistency is always on point, with a sturdy crust, tender inside and unique flavor that is the reason his reputation precedes him in the bread domain. He also offers an excellent selection of sandwiches and boxed salads for lunch on the go. Although Eric Kayser boulangeries might have a modern edge and look to them, they are still dedicated to the passion of the trade, and traditional strategies are still thriving in his ovens. Where : Eric Kayser — He has 13 locations spread throughout Paris, but he opened the original on rue Monge. It’s since moved a few doors down : 8 rue Monge Paris 75005 Open : Weekdays except Tuesday from 6:45 am to 8:30 pm; Weekends from 6:30 am to 8:30 pm Be sure to try : The baguette aux céréales. The way that the grains and seeds are sprinkled throughout the perfectly leavened dough is magique. You get the crunchy taste of flax, poppy, sesame seeds and millet mixed with the soft, airy texture of the bread for an exceptional end result.

3) A famous alternative to its long and skinny counterpart is the round sourdough loaf, whose slices are often used for traditional Croques and open-faced sandwiches called tartines. Created by a man from whom the name was drawn, Poilâne bread is also an international household name. To this day, the loaves are still handmade, with the only mechanized step being the kneading (otherwise, the process takes hours). Each boule is about 2.2 kg, but you can often buy half- or even quarter-loaves either at the bakery or at supermarkets throughout Paris, where the bread is commonly sold pre-sliced. It also makes the perfect accompaniment to creamy cheeses (Boursin, Brie, Mont d’Or) and thinly sliced cuts of various charcuterie. Where : Poilâne, 8 rue du Cherche-Midi Paris 75006 (2 other locations at 38 rue Debelleyme Paris 75003 and 49 boulevard de Grenelle Paris 75015) Open : Monday to Saturday from 7:15 am to 8:15 pm Be sure to try : The lunch formule for just under 15 euros that comes with your choice of a house tartine, side salad, bottled water or a glass of wine and a small dessert. It’s the ideal solo déjeuner. Otherwise, if you’re dining out elsewhere, you might see Poîlane offered on the tartine menu page. Go the extra euro, and swap it for the other bread. Trust us, it’s worth it.

4) No visit to the Marais is complete without a visit to its best Jewish bakery. Located on the ever-bustling rue des Rosiers, this charming little spot is both metaphorically and literally a slice of happiness. With its cute yellow façade and tantalizing plump Jewish pastries in the window display, Sacha Finkelsztajn has been around since 1946 and is still in family hands. The original founders’ grandson Sacha now runs the place. It also doubles as a delicatessen, in case you need to satisfy any bagel or pastrami cravings. Traditional pastries, including strudels, Vatrushka (traditional Eastern European stuffed pastry) and even Kosher cheesecake are available for those with a sweet tooth. Where : Sacha Finkelsztajn, La boutique Jaune, 27 rue des Rosiers Paris 75004 Open : Everyday except Tuesday from 10 am to 7 pm Be sure to try : The Yiddish Pastrami Sandwich on a Pletzel bun (Pletzel is a type of Jewish flatbread, made with onions, poppy seeds and olive oil). It’s like the taste of New York with a Parisian backdrop –basically the best of both worlds.

5) Sometimes, you gotta forgo the fashion mindset, and just eat the bread. Or decide to make your own. At least that’s what Christophe Vasseur did. Upon giving up his fashion career to start fashioning some of the tastiest baguettes in Paris. Even travel foodie connoisseur Anthony Bourdain paid the celebrated 10th arrondissement establishment a visit for one of his “The Layover” episodes that had him raving about his pastry, though he’s not usually one for sweets. It’s not just the crusty exterior that deceives you and the contrasting fluffy interior that delights you; it’s also what Christophe puts in his bread and pastry crust that will have you addicted. Olives, goat cheese, dried figs, baked apples, chocolate, pistachio — it all comes in varied, glorious savory and/or sweet combinations. Where : Du Pain et des Idées, 34 rue Yves Toudic Paris 75010 Open : Monday to Friday from 6:45 am to 8 pm Be sure to try : The L’escargot chocolat-pistache. It’s sinfully good. If you’re allergic to nuts, opt for the the rum raisin escargot. Raisins and cream enrobed in Christophe’s uber-flaky, buttery crust. This is enough to make you swoon harder than any flirtatious encounter in Paris. This list is by no means all-encompassing, as there are countless other boulangerie gold mines in Paris worth a chew. But it’s enough to get you started. The existence of these establishments at least provides a testament that good bread is not dead in la capitale française.

Section 7: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

Lunch in Paris 

Croque Monsieur, The Best Option

A Croque Monsieur is a perfect Parisian food to have for lunch. It is a must for what to eat in Paris. A Croque Monsieur is basically the French version of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. It just sounds much fancier in French. This is a must try if you are gong to Paris. It is delicious and a common order amounts visitors and even some locals. Madame Croque Monsieur is a place to try Croque Monsieurs. Their address is as follows: 45 Rue Saint-Sauveur, 75002 Paris, France. They are delicious and highly recommended there. Yelp also ranks Madame Croque Monsieur as their number one destination to taste a Croque Monsieur.

Section 8: What to Eat in Paris? A 2018 Paris Food Guide:

Dinner in Paris 

Restaurants for Dinner in Paris. Know what to eat in Paris, especially at dinner. Like what you are reading here? You will like our feature about Paris tours in Departures better! 

Le Cinq

Le Cinq located at Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 Avenue George V, 75008 Paris, France.

Le Cinq serves classic Parisian food. It is a must try according to Trip Advisor. But it is pricy.

Pierre Gagnaire

Pierre Gagnaire located at 6 Rue Balzac, 75008 Paris, France

Pierre Gagnaire serves European food. It is recommended you try the wine with the tasting menu.

L’Abeille

L’Abeille located at 10 Avenue d’Iéna, 75116 Paris, France

L’Abeille is highly rated and known for their duck